A place to escape the elements is a must for dogs that spend any time outdoors. This DIY doghouse project will take you through the steps to build a classic A-frame from a single sheet of plywood and some dimensional lumber. Remember that your doghouse should be proportionate to your dog. Bigger is not necessarily better, because dogs tend to feel more secure in small spaces. Also, a properly sized doghouse helps your pet use its natural body heat to warm the interior and stay comfortable during cold weather.
This project is intended for dogs up to fifty pounds that are tiny to medium in size. All the major components of the house may be cut from a single sheet of exterior-grade plywood that is 3/4 inch thick. Because wood is a natural insulator, it keeps your doghouse warmer in the winter and colder in the summer. Use high-quality plywood and wood that is free of checks and splinters because your dog’s safety is your top priority.
Because pressure-treated wood contains chemicals that could hurt your dog, only use it for the base where your pet cannot nibble on it. Low-VOC finishes are what you should use to paint or stain the doghouse.
Arrange the Components
Transferring the dimensions from the PLAN DIAGRAM to the plywood is the first step you should do (Image 1). Recreate the diagram on the plywood sheet using a framing square and a straightedge. It should be noted that no parts are in contact with one another on the plan, ensuring that no dimensions will be affected by the kerf, or saw blade cut width.
Create a doorway that is roughly 13 inches high and 10 inches wide. In order to cover the base and bottom panel, leave a 3-inch-tall lip at the bottom of the hole. Roughly three-quarters of the dog’s height should be the opening in the entrance. Dogs love to duck through doghouse doors because it gives them the impression that they are entering a warm, safe area. Therefore, large doors are not necessary.
Additionally, it makes sense to keep the entry as narrow as possible to help block out weather and maintain heat in the winter. To create the arched top of the entryway, you can use any handy round object, such as a pot cover, Frisbee, or dinner plate.
Slice the Parts Off
Trim all of the plywood’s box components. Prior to cutting, tightly clamp the work piece to your sawhorses. Use a cross-cut blade that is sharp to minimize splintering and chips. For clean, splinter-free cuts, go gently and let the saw do its work. Whether you choose to cut on the inner or outside edge of each line, or straight on the lines you’ve drawn, won’t matter. To make sure that everything fits together correctly, though, once you’ve decided how to cut, stick to your plan.
When cutting the roof panels, cut one long edge of each roof panel with the saw blade set at a 45-degree angle. This bevel cut will ensure a tight fit at the roof peak. Set the shoe of your circular saw at 45-degrees, and always unplug the saw before making any adjustments. When cutting, make sure to watch the blade as you follow your cut line. Don’t rely on the cutting guide on the shoe of the saw or your cut will be off.
After you finish this bevel cut, one side of each roof panel will be slightly wider than the other. The wider surface should be the 20-inch dimension as indicated on the diagram, and is the upper side of each roof panel — forming the point of the 45-degree roof peak. Return your saw blade to the 90-degree position before cutting each roof panel to length.
To remove the doorway, use a jigsaw equipped with a blade designed to cut plywood (Image 2). First, drill a 3/8-inch starting hole at each entry hole’s bottom corner for the jigsaw blade. To avoid tear-out, carefully follow the lines and support the cutout piece while you finish the cut.
Insufficient ventilation in your doghouse can cause the summer air to grow stuffy and hot, which will make your pet uncomfortable. Ample cross ventilation will be provided via the holes in the back panel close to the peak. Using spur cutters and a 1-3/8-inch spade bit, drill three holes that are equally spaced apart (Image 3). Immediately beneath the hole locations, place a piece of scrap lumber to aid minimize tear-out when drilling through the plywood.
After cutting out all of the pieces, smooth all of the edges to get rid of any splinters and rough patches using an orbital sander or sanding block with medium-grit sandpaper.
Construct the Base
Using the pressure-treated 2×4 components, assemble the base frame. The doghouse’s floor is raised a few inches above the ground by the base. This makes an area of dead air beneath the house’s floor, which helps to keep the floor dry and insulated. Using a power miter saw or circular saw, cut the base components in accordance with the cut list. Although cutting pressure-treated lumber, always use a dust mask.
To conceal the end grain from view from the front of the doghouse, the 23-inch base side pieces go inside the 22-1/2-inch front and back sections. The parts are put together with the edges facing outward. Drill pilot holes beforehand with a countersink bit, then use two 3″ galvanized wood screws on each end to secure the foundation pieces together.
Verify that the base is square and that all of the panel’s edges are flush before placing it on top of it. Using 1-1/4″ galvanized wood screws, secure the bottom to the base, being careful to bury the screw heads just below the surface.
Canines that exhibit fear during training
At first, some dogs are afraid of the A-frame. This is particularly true for dogs who have a generalized fear of heights (they may also be afraid of the agility dog walk) or who exhibit a lack of confidence when using the agility course. A dog is likely to stall out halfway up the ramp if he does not approach the A-frame confidently and quickly, which will frighten him even more.
Lowering the A-frame sufficiently to make it easier for these dogs to navigate is also helpful. Treat your dog extra well to get him to cross it. The more practice you get, the better.
If you don’t have an A-frame at home, you can alternatively purchase a board, paint it blue and yellow, and set it up in your yard at a slight slant. Instruct your dog to walk the board with assurance; this ability can then be applied to the real A-frame. Just make sure it’s not slippery; to give the surface traction, you may, for instance, use sand as described below.
Purchasing an A-frame
The cost of adding an A-frame to your at-home agility course could surprise you. The most expensive obstacle on an agility field is usually an A-frame. These days, the foundation is often composed of aluminum, and the dog moves on a rubberized surface. To make moving your A-frame around easier, it would be ideal if it had wheels.
Making this obstacle is not inexpensive; you need budget at least $1,200 for your A-frame. A secondhand A-frame may occasionally be available from a local agility club or from a rival who is selling their outdated obstacle; keep a look out for any possible sales!
Making an A-frame at home
You may use wood to construct your own A-frame at home. Although a full-sized A-frame can be made, many dog owners choose a smaller version that still provides exercise and training benefits for their dog in a more space-efficient manner.
Be careful the boards are not slippery when constructing your own A-frame. Slats or rubber skins (however somewhat expensive) can be used on the boards. Another low-cost method is to use paint and sand; by using the paint to “glue” the sand to the board, you can increase the surface’s traction.
Use a low-VOC exterior stain or paint to finish the doghouse. You can use wood putty to cover the screw holes before applying the finish. Give the finish a full day or two to dry completely before letting your dog inside to minimize the chance of residual fumes.